In one of the previous articles we focused on diagnosing problems with the epidermal barrier, now we will consider what ingredients may prove to be helpful in rebuilding it .
Damaged epidermal skin barrier – what does it mean?
The epidermal barrier consists of two parts:
- layers of corneocytes , i.e. dead cells that form the stratum corneum of the epidermis,
- intercellular cement , i.e. a binder made of a mixture of lipids that connects keratinocytes to each other.
On the surface of the skin there is a hydrolipid coat – a mixture of water and lipids, which come from the secretions of the sweat and sebaceous glands. It regulates the skin's pH , lubricates it and reduces the negative effects of harmful external factors.
If you have carefully read our article on how to recognize a damaged skin barrier , you already know that it usually manifests itself as:
- itching, burning and redness of the skin,
- hypersensitivity to the cosmetics used,
- excess sebum production.
Incorrect skin care habits , as well as various individual conditions (e.g. genetic susceptibility to various skin anomalies) or diseases (such as atopic dermatitis) can weaken the epidermal barrier and lead to the above-mentioned problems.
The damaged hydrolipid coat rebuilds itself!
Every time you wash your skin , the hydrolipid coat is removed from its surface. But don't worry!
After approximately 1 to 1.5 hours, healthy skin recreates it on its own .
"Healthy" - the key word! If skin problems have a deeper basis , it may not function effectively, which may negatively affect the process of rebuilding the hydrolipid coat.
How to rebuild a damaged epidermal barrier?
Pay attention to the pH of cosmetics
Human skin has a slightly acidic reaction , which is a natural barrier and protection against the negative effects of bacteria living on the skin.
You should use cosmetics with a pH close to the natural skin pH , which is approximately 4.7 to 5.6.
Optimize your face care
Your skincare routine should be based on products and ingredients that complement each other. It's very easy to get caught up in a shopping frenzy, especially when new cosmetics are appearing on the market. You know how it works: "if it helped my friend, maybe it will help me too?" This way, your wallet loses weight and your skin is overstimulated, which can negatively affect its condition.
Paulina Pomaska wrote about what elements are essential in a basic facial care routine. I encourage you to read this article !
What ingredients are desirable in the care of irritated skin?
Active ingredients
Active substances are those ingredients of cosmetics that determine their target effect (for example, moisturizing).
- Niacinamide – a derivative of vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP. Improves the skin barrier function by increasing the amount of ceramides and intercellular lipids. Studies have shown that applying a preparation with niacinamide twice a day can reduce skin inflammation , limit transepidermal water loss and increase the thickness of the stratum corneum .
- Centella asiatica – application of cosmetics containing its extract has been shown to increase skin hydration (i.e. water content in the stratum corneum) and reduce transepidermal water loss and the intensity of erythema . Due to its anti-inflammatory effects, it can alleviate symptoms resulting from damage to the epidermal barrier .
- Squalane (stable derivative of squalene – an element of the lipid coat) – has strong moisturizing properties, but does not leave a greasy film on the skin. It also effectively retains moisture in the stratum corneum of the epidermis, minimizing transepidermal water loss.
Occlusive moisturizers
These are substances that create a barrier on the skin surface that prevents excessive transepidermal water loss. This protection allows the water content in the stratum corneum of the epidermis to be replenished through its deeper layers and the dermis.
Occlusive moisturizers include:
- Vaseline – according to experts, it can block up to 99% of transepidermal water loss,
- vegetable oils (e.g. coconut or castor),
- sterols (including cholesterol, ceramides).
Humectants
These are compounds that bind water molecules and attract them from the deeper layers of the epidermis and dermis. Some humectants can therefore increase transepidermal water loss, which is why it is worth using occlusive moisturizers at the same time.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of glycolic and lactic acids. They are effective humectants that cause exfoliation of the epidermal layers and improve the skin's barrier function by increasing the level of ceramides. Lactic acid at a concentration of up to 12% is a popular tool in the fight against dry skin or so-called ichthyosis.
Another popular humectant is, for example, glycerin .
Emulsifiers
This is another group of substances commonly found in moisturizing preparations. They prevent the separation of cosmetic ingredients, which (under normal conditions) were not able to chemically combine with each other. Thanks to emulsifiers, the resulting preparation (i.e. emulsion ) is stable and suitably viscous.
These include, among others:
- fatty acids (e.g. stearic acid),
- higher alcohols (e.g. cetyl alcohol),
- cholesterol ,
- lanolin .
Attention, interesting fact! Some of the occlusive moisturizing substances also have emulsifying properties ! For example, the substances mentioned above exhibit the action characteristic of both groups of ingredients.
Vitamins
Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3. It is also known as vitamin PP. It improves the function of the epidermal barrier by increasing the amount of ceramides and intercellular lipids. Studies have shown that applying a preparation with niacinamide twice a day can reduce skin inflammation, limit transepidermal water loss and increase the thickness of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
Vitamin C has a very wide range of clinical applications: from anti-aging to photoprotective (protecting against the negative effects of solar radiation). It is also necessary for proper collagen synthesis.
Remember: the best treatment tailored to the specific needs of your skin should be offered to you by a specialist. So don't hesitate to consult a beautician if you experience any unwanted skin ailments!
And let our articles be a nice guide for you. Cheers!
Created at: 06/12/2022
Updated at: 22/02/2023
